when it's done fill the pot, but make sure the emulsion holes[little holes you drilled in the tube] are in air, bolt the top on[bit of paper will do as gasket] connect the blow gun up and squirt Remote areas/Scottish Highlands and non-UK Mainland areas may be subject to additional charges and a longer delivery time. This is determined by our couriers not Rustbuster.

This did not improve the sink/kitchen area one little jot, .....ever tried holding a 'waxoiled cat' in a sink with water and rags, and especially when cat does not enjoy it ? Winter is not when waxoyl should be applied, but I had no choice. I did my best to get everything dry and warm before applying the waxoyl. I put 2 floodlights and one blow heater under the van 30 minutes prior to waxoyling and kept these on under van throughout.

Inside the chassis members and internal box sections

I decided to use a Waxoil gun and my compressor, I had the propane burner on in the workshop since 3.00pm flat out and it was like the sahara, in fact it was so hot I decided a T-shirt and shorts was the dress code. some air in at 50psi, you should get a nice circular spary of waxoyl out of the nozzle, increase pressure and if you are getting a real lopsided spray pattern take the nozzle apart and

I've got away with it...."all done"...I've got away with it...."think I'll have a beer"...I've got away with it....I've got away with it...."Would you like a glass of wine ?"....I've got away with it....yippee....I've got away with it....andTrue story that has been on the LR forums for a few years... anyone who's had dripping Waxoyl in the face while DIYing the job will appreciate this... This gun has a screw thread that is designed to fit onto many popular undersealing products – except, for some reason, Waxoyl. I emptied out a tetrashutz tin and used that. Oils: These tend to be more penetrative but evaporate quite rapidly, meaning that the application usually has to be renewed yearly. So i'll be spraying the whole underside, under the arches/wings, behind the valances, in the seatbelt bolt holes, under the scuttle (if i can get access to that), round the door hinges and behind the doors. Anywhere else i should do? It most certainly works, I've used it for years. Yes, it kills existing rust. Yes, it stops new rust forming. It's particularly good for inside doors and box sections.

It sat there and looked at me the way only a cat can... it sniffed (unapprovingly) the dripped waxoil, and I said… It also pinged the fuse for the lighting circuit, getting myself out of the underneath of the landy proved friutfull, in that I knew all the places that waxoil had “leaked”. Now theres hardly any rust on the body just a bit on the rear valance, so my primary concern is to get it thoughrally protected so i dont have to start doing expencive resto jobs on it in the near future.Before I waxoyled inside the chassis members I set the compressor to maximum and sprayed out any dust and crap. It was all quite clean in here, otherwise I would have had to power wash it and wait weeks for it to dry. Waxoyl should help stop water getting in to connectors and terminals, causing corrosion. I also put some on the battery terminals and the main chassis ground connection. hour later cat was scrubbed and very peed off with me, I’ve had 2 baths, and also cleaned the bath it seems that the bath will not be rusty...scrubbed kitchen floor, sink, worktop Greases: These use oil as the carrier. Dinitrol is a grease type. Dinitrol is expensive and by the time you have bought or hired a gun and compressor and quite a few canisters of Dinitrol, you may be approaching the cost of a proper Before 'n' After treatment. Best yo re-apply it once every few years to make sure all the stone chips and scuffs are covered and sealed.